We happily spent past 2 weeks in Studio Audioworkx, where we recorded the album for Eva Almagor. Under supervision of Werner Pensaert the songs where mostly recorded live. Stay tuned for updates http://www.evaalmagor.nl and on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EvaAlmagor/
After watching a lot of video’s and listening to authors selling their music online, I became very enthusiastic in recording own music in my simple home-setup. It’s a very pleasant and ever challenging learning journey, and I love it.
Audio-Jungle as part of the Envato Market is one of many cool websites where you can place music and interact with other authors. I started out with a music profile there, which you can visit here below. Feel free to comment or share your own home recording experiences!
Some work on the deluxe again! Let’s go! The necessary parts are fitted in the chassis and the preamp section of the circuit is now wired with full carbon comp resistors, ceramic tube sockets and a silver mica bright cap. All value’s are stock until the amp is finished and working. For possible modifications, I’m thinking about a switchable cathode bias-value (250 Ohm to a for example 400-ish range Ohm to improve dynamic response and more) and perhaps a switchable tone-cap value (0,0047 to 0,0005 to cut the brittle edge).
According to the original schematic, the grounding of components as inputs, bypass capacitors and the filter capacitors is done close to the location of the components. That will probably work but may cause issues. Like in most amp designs and to minimize (idle) hum I try to tightly lead them all to a central grounding point, to the power transformer, meeting up with the ground from the net wire. Testing will show if I need to lift the input jacks and pots from the chassis.
The choice of 20 AWG for the circuity wiring doesn’t turn out to be the easiest after all. After connecting one end, bending the wire to the correct shape has to be done with a lot of tenderness and listening to Chet Baker as the thick wires are stiff and tend to break.
Next up will be the wiring of the power amp section and jack inputs…
And it’s finished! The project was abandoned for a while but after diving in again for a couple of nights it’s done! It turned out a new power transformer was needed after all. I went for a Hammond 290AEX to do the job. The rest was more or less done with leftovers from the tiny-bits box and a small order to achieve completion at least.
A couple of details regarding the circuit: The values of the filter caps are: 30uf for the main filter cap, 22uf for the screen and the stock value of 16uf for the preamp. The cathode resistor value is 250Ohms, the stock value as well. The plate voltage is kept at a very descent low 330v thanks to the JJ 5y3 rectifier tube. V1 is a EH12AY7, V2 a JJECC83s and the speaker is a Jensen P12Q reissue.
I performed the fairly simple artificial center tap to the filament wiring to get rid of most of the 60hz idle hum. The instructions to this and many other useful modifications can be found here: https://robrobinette.com/5e3_Modifications.htm
The finished amp sounds very nice, has a pretty tight low end, yet has a open lively sound and the early breakup it’s well known for. Sound clips and/ or video’s will appear in the near future. Have a great weekend and till next time…
Check out my other projects: http://www.aldospadaro.com/projecten/
In the proces of finishing my Brown Deluxe I have the parts of the circuitry waiting here to assembly them on some new fiberboard in the near future. But…as I look trough all the parts laying around here it turns out that I might as well build a 5e3 Tweed Deluxe from them. That would be a nice spring project, would it not? My main Tweed Deluxe shown in the gear page on this website is now back to stock and sounds fantastic. So this 2nd Tweed Deluxe could be cool to do modifications on. I used to have this 2nd Tweed Deluxe which I sacrificed for the parts anyway, so the cabinet is still there, the chassis is there, pots, switches, fuse holder, pilot light and some small hardware are all to be found in the parts-box. I have all the components for the circuitboard except for the 5K and 22K 2w resistors in the power supply. I might need a new Power Transformer as the other unfortunately blew during recording. I need a speaker, jack inputs, a nice set of tubes and some small hardware. But that’s it! Yeah…Let’s do it! I am going to try to write about the pleasant building-proces and hope to give an insight view on the construction…feel free to comment!
Step 1: After cleaning the board with some nail-polish I dry-fitted all the components of the circuitry.
The resistors are carbon composition ones.
The two 56k as shown on the picture are not, but will be later.
Signal capacitors are Mallory 150’s, electrolytic capacitors are TAD.
The use of carbon comp. resistors for the so-called special mojo could be true or myth. But I like to use them when building a vintage style amp due to the possible drifting in value when used and harmonics they would add to the signal. The downside is that they can cause some noise and are known to fail sooner than for instance carbon film resistors. Anyway, Here is a nice article about carbon comp resistors. According to the article, the use of carbon comp would be good at the plate resistors only. For now I will try go carbon comp all the way first and see how the amp behaves. After dry fitting and cut to size, everything is soldered down leaving some room at the connections as later in the proces some wires will have to fit in there too. More solder is fed when these connections are made.
The Champion 600 amp. It sure looks cute and though it’s not a bad sounding little amp, it’s not a recreation of the original Fender ‘600’ amp. My ambitious plan with this amp was to strip it completely from its guts and rebuild it as Point-to-Point Tweed 5F1 champ. But after reading what other people did to make it sound better, I started out by doing the modifications to it’s PCB circuit. Just for fun, but the sound became surprisingly different and good to my ears! Definitely worth trying them out, so I’d like to share this. If you have a Champion 600, you can help it to have it’s not-too-inspiring sound into what it can do. For almost no costs whatsoever! What you is need a soldering iron, a 0,1uf audio capacitor (Orange Drop, Mallory etc.) and a 2w 1K resistor. Here’s how to do it:
Be careful as the voltages in a tube amp, even the smallest one are dangerous. The voltages present can kill your ass or at least causes pain, and a feeling of being stupid and sorry, which is not nice. Make sure that you absolutely know what you’re doing or have this type of work done by a technician or technically skilled individual. That out of the way, let’s do it!
After removing the back panel and the tubes, drain the filter capacitors.
Then, remove the following components:
– Resistors R20 and R21 and R7
– Capacitors C1 and C3
– Solder a 0,1uf, running from the bottom of C1 to bottom of R21. Make sure the leads don’t make contact with anything else. You could insulate them or have the capacitor sit on a extension-bridge from screw T7 and connect wires to them. This simply bypasses the fixed tonestack, which fattens the tone up and gives a better dynamic response to the amp.
Here’s with that part of the circuitry looks like after the surgery:
The Champion 600 design stresses more than everything out of the single 6v6 with the stock 470 Ohm cathode resistor in R10. I’ve read that it runs at about 14w-15w dissipation! That’s over the max. spec of 12w and burns up the 6v6 too quickly. Just as bad, this simply doesn’t sound good and causes idle noise and hum. You can correct this simply by raising the value of R10. You can do this by adding a 200-250 Ohm resistor in parallel and get the 6v6 down to about 12w, what would be about the max it can give. I went to 1K with this and I’m happy with the way it behaves. It’s almost hum-free, has enough low-end and the breakup starts at about 4-5 on the volume knob. On 12 it’s just on the edge of fuzzing, slightly below it, it’s very rough and sounds huge! Having the 6v6 running more comfortably will also make your 6v6’s last longer. So, a modification like this could therefore be a solid step into a more environment-friendly state of rocking out…
Here’s the 1K doing it’s thankful job sitting in R10:
There you have it:
A lovely gritty, growly, chunky little amp with the more harmonic, but also paperish speaker-driven overdrive recognize-able in many great and timeless rock and roll tracks. With the stock OT, PT, PCB and even with the stock speaker still in it! The 12Ax7 is Sovtek, the 6v6 is a old and used Fender but it performs well. The speaker is now the bottleneck of improving this amp and will be replaced in the near future. There are a lot more modifications possible to Tweedy-fy the circuit and I will continue to work on it.
If you are busy with something similar, have got any tips or questions, please reply.
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